PROVENCE

 Travelling to France: Our Provence & Côte d’Azur Itinerary 

I travelled to France on a one-week girls’ trip to Provence in April, flying Air Canada from Toronto to Paris on an 8:30pm departure.

On the way there, we flew economy on a 777 and secured exit row seats — a huge win for comfort. I also used a simple long-haul trick: placing my carry-on at my feet to elevate my legs. Combined with a sleep mask, earplugs, and the sleep aid Melatonin, I skipped the dinner service in favour of sleep and arrived feeling surprisingly refreshed.

TIP: Prioritize sleep on overnight flights — it completely changes your first day.

On the return, I upgraded to Premium Economy and honestly found it underwhelming. The exit row experience on the outbound flight was just as good, if not better. To help beat jet lag, I took short naps, read and watched movies. I chose to drink water only over pop or alcohol. Once home I forced myself to stay awake until a reasonable hour, took a Melatonin and had a beautiful sleep in my bed. I woke feeling back on Toronto time!

After landing at CDG, we had expected long immigration delays with the new EES system, but we were through in minutes.  There were no long lines, questions or delays with fingerprints.  The airport was well-signposted, and our transfer via train to Lyon was seamless — croissants, coffee, and an easy 2 hour ride. 

On our way out of Lyon we picked up our rental - a Hyundai hybrid SUV through Alamo for only C$600 total, and used just one tank of gas for the entire trip — excellent value for exploring Provence at our own pace.

Our Itinerary:

1 Night in Lyon: OKKO Hotels Lyon Pont Layfayette. Great value, clean and well located.

https://www.okkohotels.com/fr/page/lyon/okko-hotels-lyon-centre-hotel-4-etoiles.24897.html

2 Nights in Avignon: Airbnb. Charming, providing lots of space for 3 ladies travelling together and well situated  inside the walls as well as hoping in the car to explore Provence. 

https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/1191796045295649362source_impression_id=p3_1778683638_P3fRj5O3wf7tsxBR

1 Night in Aix-En-Provence: Hotel Le Concorde. Not recommended for hotel or location but great price. 

https://www.hotel-aixenprovence-concorde.com/

2 Nights in Nice: Airbnb. Located in Vieux Nice. Charming, well appointed and spacious. Highly recommend. 

https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/1390229885287082573?source_impression_id=p3_1778683735_P3NMXs47-DwNNM3E

Lyon

OKKO Hotel is a modern boutique hotel in the 6th arrondissement.  It was a great base to explore this vibrant city — walkable and comfortable, offering excellent coffee in the morning to start the day.

We crossed Pont Lafayette into Vieux Lyon for dinner at Les Enfants Terribles, a classic Lyonnais bouchon-style restaurant on Rue Mercière — one of the city’s liveliest dining streets. One thing became immediately clear: the French have an undeniable talent for dressing well. No Lululemon and sweatpants here!  Even the most casual outfit somehow looks polished, intentional, and impossibly chic.

The next morning, we found Copains Lyon Herriot Bakery, a standout gluten-free bakery before heading to Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse — a true highlight. Not your typical market - it is an upscale indoor culinary destination filled with beautifully curated vendors selling oysters, cheeses, charcuterie, pastries, chocolates, and wine. You can sit and sample dishes from different vendors while pairing them with local wines. This market is reason enough to visit Lyon!

Avignon: Absolutely Worth the Stop

Driving into Avignon is unforgettable — the first view of the medieval city walls sets the tone instantly. Our first impression was immediate: WOW.  Unfortunately, we didn’t realize this was the best panoramic photo opportunity and missed our chance for the photo op. If you’re arriving by car, keep your camera ready as you approach the old town.

We stayed at an Airbnb just inside the walls. A beautifully renovated former barn that has been transformed into a 2 story loft-style Airbnb — spacious, modern, and perfectly located for exploring on foot.

Both nights found us on rue Galante for dinner. Of particular note was the popular Le Vintage, which I would recommend. It was fully booked with a long wait on the Saturday,  which was our sign to ensure we reserved for the quieter Sunday dinner.

On our final morning, we walked toward the magnificent Palais des Papes, stopping for a coffee and a bite in a residential neighbourhood that left us feeling like locals. Once at the Palais, we chose not to tour the interior, but even from the outside, it’s incredibly impressive.   And if you love crêpes as I do, be sure to visit the small crêpe cart in the courtyard.  Délicieux!

From there, we walked across the famous Pont Saint-Bénézet. This is not to be missed.  The views back toward the city walls are spectacular and made for some of our favourite photos of the trip.

On our way back to the car, we wandered through the lively square in front of Hôtel de Ville d'Avignon, where cafés buzzed with mid-morning energy and a carousel spun happily for children of all ages.

Avignon exceeded every expectation and should be a must on any trip to Provence. We stayed 2 nights but to do again, I would consider 3 nights here. 

TIP: If you’re visiting Avignon on a weekend, reserve your dinner spot in advance.

Aix-en-Provence: Our Least Favourite

I know this may be an unpopular opinion because many travellers absolutely love Aix-en-Provence, but for us, this was the biggest disappointment of our Provence itinerary.

We stayed at Hôtel Le Concorde, a property that advertises itself as a three-star hotel in the historic centre. In reality, it seemed not to meet either advertisement.  The hotel felt tired and unclean.  My bathroom had a strong, unpleasant odour which after asking, was addressed. My shower was dirty enough that I chose not to use it. The bathroom itself was so compact that it was genuinely uncomfortable to use.  My friend’s room had a balcony door that would not lock, which understandably made her feel uneasy from a safety perspective.  When we raised our concerns with the front desk, the response was underwhelming, feeling more dismissive than solution driven.

We spent some time wandering the shops of the historic centre, settling in for a glass of rosé, which is never a bad way to reset after a disappointing check-in.  Later, we had dinner at La Bastide de Paula which we found delightful after a stroll along the main promenade.

The next morning, we were more than ready to leave. We skipped lingering over coffee, packed up quickly, and got back on the road.

While I appreciate that many travellers love this city, for our style of travel — slower, more atmospheric, and rooted in local character — Aix lacked the charm we had fallen in love with elsewhere in Provence.

TIP: If time is limited, prioritize Avignon or smaller Luberon villages over Aix.

Nice: The Perfect Ending 

Nice was the perfect Riviera finale — stylish, energetic, and effortlessly beautiful.  The Promenade des Anglais, Old Town, and Castle Hill each offer a different perspective of the city. Nice is the vibrant heart of the French Riviera, where glamour meets old-world charm.

We spent two nights in the most charming Airbnb just around the corner from Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice, a lively square that is very active day and night.  The apartment itself was on the fourth floor of a historic building with no elevator — something to keep in mind if mobility or luggage-hauling is a concern.

Inside was beautifully designed and spotlessly clean, with three well-appointed bedrooms.

Nice felt sophisticated without being pretentious. Exactly what you hope the Riviera will be.  Our final evening in France ended with one of the best meals of the trip at Le Grand Balcon, which was the perfect farewell dinner with an extensive menu and excellent wine pairing options. We all loved it and highly recommend a meal here for any stay in Nice. 

Whether it was the exceptional food, the magic of our final night, the joy of sharing it with dear friends, or simply my love of French red wine, it was one of the best evenings of our trip.

TIP:  Two nights in Nice felt like the minimum visit if you want enough time to soak in Old Town, enjoy the waterfront, indulge in great food and shopping, and end your Provence itinerary with a little Riviera glamour.

DAY TRIPS

Tain l’Hermitage

This small Rhône Valley town, located halfway between Lyon and Avignon, makes an ideal pause for wine, cycling, and chocolate — not a bad combination for a road trip through France.

The area is home to several well-known wineries, including Maison M. Chapoutier, where you can rent electric bikes and cycle through the vineyard grounds and up Hermitage Hill for beautiful views over the town and surrounding vineyards. Many rental options were booked early, so we rented through Wine and Ride. Easy reservation process and very flexible but not electric. https://www.wineandride.com/fr/tain/

On our ride, we stopped at La Cité du Chocolat Valrhona. We skipped the museum tour and headed straight for the shop, where an interactive questionnaire matches you with two personalized chocolate flavours based on your taste preferences - and it was spot on.

TIP:
Allow at least 2-3 hours if you want time to cycle, browse the chocolate shop, and enjoy a relaxed lunch or wine tasting.

L’Isle-Sur-La_Sorgue

Said to be one of the most beautiful towns in Provence, often called the “Venice of Provence.” If you are on the hunt for great local markets like us, this is often considered among the best in the region.

We arrived much later than planned, and parking was a challenge. Every lot was full, we finally parked in a commercial plaza about a kilometre from town.

The village itself looked incredibly charming, but honestly, it was difficult to fully appreciate.

The market is enormous, with vendors stretching through nearly every street in the historic centre, so much of the town’s usual character gets hidden beneath the crowds and stalls.  That said, the market itself was absolutely worth the stop.

This is exactly what you hope for in a Provençal market: vendors selling fresh local produce, fish, clothing, handbags, handmade goods, and art from local creators.

TIP:
Arrive early and expect crowds. If your priority is seeing the town over the market, visit on a day other than Sunday when the stalls are gone and the canals can truly shine.

Gordes

I believe it lives up to its reputation for being one of the most beautiful villages not only in the Luberon region, but in the world. The hype was completely justified.

What surprised me most was that despite its reputation, it never felt overwhelmed by tourists.

Perched dramatically on a hillside, Gordes is rich in history, with abbeys, ancient stone huts, fountains, wash houses, and winding streets that invite wandering with absolutely no agenda.

We stopped for lunch at Le Célestin, directly across from the castle, and had a fantastic salad while soaking in the atmosphere of the square.

Afterward, we wandered the medieval streets, browsed the small shops, and finished with gelato — which felt like exactly the right way to experience Gordes.

TIP:
Give yourself at least half a day here. 

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Of all the extraordinary places we visited, I think this may have been my favourite. Saint-Rémy had that rare quality of feeling exactly how you imagine the South of France should feel.  It is the quintessential Provençal village — sun-washed stone buildings, winding cobblestone streets, shaded cafés, lively market squares, and the faint scent of lavender drifting through narrow lanes.

After strolling the town, stopping by Le Trufficulteur for truffle salt, visiting the birthplace of Nostradamus, we stopped for a memorable lunch at a shaded table in the oldest square of town. Crêperie Lou Planet, was an excellent choice for my gluten-free travel companion, with several galette options — the savoury buckwheat crêpes the region is known for.

TIP:
Make room for a stop at Saint-Rémy. This one is worth lingering in and possibly an overnight stay.

Antibes

While it has all the ingredients of a beautiful French Riviera town — cobblestone streets, seaside views, and a charming old centre — it wasn’t a standout for me compared to some of the other villages and towns. 

Notable for art lovers, is a visit to Musée Picasso. 

One of the highlights is the waterfront, where you can stroll along the harbour and take in the impressive super yachts docked at Port Vauban — a surreal contrast between historic town and the ultra-luxury sailing culture.

As in many French towns, the market was another highlight — we picked up fresh strawberries and enjoyed them as we wandered.

TIP:
From my perspective, Antibes is best treated as a short stop rather than a destination.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup

On our way into Vence to visit the Chapelle Matisse, we noticed a village nestled in the valley which piqued our interest. It was Tourrettes-sur-Loup — which became one of our favourite unexpected discoveries of the trip.

Despite being described as a popular tourist village, it felt anything but touristy. Instead, it had a lived-in, authentic, and peaceful atmosphere.  This ancient hilltop village dates back over 2,900 years to early Celtic-Ligurian settlements and is now known for its violet cultivation and thriving community of artists. Wandering through its narrow stone streets felt like stepping back in time.

We explored the village in about 30 minutes. We easily could have stayed longer, but we were unfortunately short on time.  

TIP:
If you’re driving between Provence and the Côte d’Azur, Tourrettes-sur-Loup is absolutely worth the detour. 

Èze

We delivered the rental car back to the Nice airport and chose the train to visit Èze. Parking in the hilltop villages had been consistently challenging, while the train network along the Côte d’Azur is frequent, efficient, and surprisingly inexpensive.

From the station, we opted for a small shuttle van service costing about €8 per person to carry us along the steep climb filled with tight switchbacks to Èze.

At the top, visitors have the option to stop at the entrance to the Jardin Exotique d'Èze. There was a long line to purchase tickets, so we elected to continue directly into the village.

Often described as a quiet, dreamlike escape and a must-visit on the Côte d’Azur. In reality, it was extremely busy by mid-morning, and the volume of visitors made it difficult to move comfortably through the narrow streets.  The village is highly commercialized, with many shops focused on souvenirs and tourist goods alongside a smaller number of artisan boutiques.

Looking back, while Èze is still worth seeing for its views alone, I would personally choose nearby villages like Tourrettes-sur-Loup for a more authentic and peaceful experience.

TIP:
Èze is best visited early in the morning or off-season if possible, if you want to experience it at its most atmospheric. Otherwise, consider nearby hilltop villages for a quieter, more authentic feel.

Villefrance-Sur-Mer

Just a few minutes by train from from Èze — this quickly became another favourite stop on our Côte d’Azur journey.

We didn’t set out to explore in depth. Instead, the pull of seaside cafés at lunchtime was too strong to resist.

We immediately settled into a waterfront table of one of the many restaurants along the boardwalk.  With the heat, the view, and the unhurried conversation over a shared bottle of rosé, it was one of those long, lingering lunches that perfectly captures the French Riviera lifestyle.

While at lunch, we began planning how to spend the rest of our time in town. We read about a beautiful coastal walk back into Nice — about 5 km along the Cap de Nice coastline, part of the Sentier du Littoral, also known as the Customs Officers’ Path.  It’s often described as one of the most scenic easy walks on the Côte d’Azur.  Unfortunately, we entered the route incorrectly into our navigation.  Instead of a gentle seaside path, we were directed up roughly 500 steps and through a series of residential streets and hillside neighbourhoods between Villefranche-sur-Mer and Nice.

While we didn’t get the sea views we expected, the walk was still beautiful in its own way — passing quiet local parks, children playing, and glimpses of everyday life in the hillside communities above the coast.

Eventually, we arrived back into Nice from above, rewarded with sweeping views over the city and the coastline we had just travelled through.  Not the walk we planned — but a memorable one all the same.

Final Thoughts on Travelling Through Provence & the Côte d’Azur

Looking back on our time in southern France, what stands out most isn’t any single landmark or famous attraction — it’s the rhythm of the trip itself.

We travelled through Provence and the Côte d’Azur at a pace that allowed us to experience both the iconic and the unexpected: medieval hilltop villages, bustling markets, quiet seaside towns, and long lunches that stretched far beyond anything we would normally allow ourselves at home.

Provence, in particular, is at its best when you slow down. It’s in the early morning markets, the quiet cafés before the crowds arrive, and the small towns where everyday life continues alongside centuries of history. To do it again, I would plan for more of this. 

The Riviera is polished, energetic, and undeniably beautiful in its own way. Nice offered the perfect contrast: a place to walk, shop, dine well, and simply enjoy being by the sea.

More than anything, this trip reinforced something simple but important: travel is not about checking off the most famous places. It’s about finding the moments that feel real, even if they weren’t the ones you originally planned for.