south iceland

After hopping into our Jeep rental,  we made a quick detour into Reykjavik for a hearty lamb shank breakfast before finally hitting the open road toward our first stop.

Our first destination was Hveragerði, a small residential town with a few cozy restaurants, a swimming pool and access to the breathtaking Reykjadalur Valley.  After a much needed sleep at The Greenhouse Hotel, with it's clean, and comfortable beds, we set out  to catch the sunset over the hills. The valley is alive with geothermal mud pools and vents, and at the top, we discovered a hot spring river perfect for a warm soak amid icy surroundings — a surreal introduction to Iceland’s otherworldly landscapes. The valley trek was rewarded by a meal at Olverk Pizzeria. While closer to fast food dining, we were able to have a cold beer and delicious hot pizza.

Next, we drove to Vík, where we would spend two nights at the charming Hotel Kria. This hotel proved perfect for family bonding over pool and darts. Vik is an iconic coastal town and a must on any Southern tour as it is famous for its black-sand beaches and dramatic cliffs. En route, we took a side trip to Dyrhólaey, a viewpoint where brilliant waves crash against towering cliffs. The stop was fleeting, but unforgettable; access can be tricky in winter, so seize the moment if the weather allows. In Vík, our days were filled with adventure and shopping. Here we wavered between investing in the iconic Icelandic wool sweaters or the equally cozy — but far less expensive — blankets. We opted for the blankets, which quickly became a staple in our home. And yet… we couldn’t help but find ourselves regretful for not choosing the sweaters too!  

Our evenings included  a meal at  Berg Restaurant - situated in the  Hotel Vík í Mýrdal. A fine dining experience, serving a fantastic lamb meal! Our second night brought us to the popular Ströndin Pub, where we had our first taste of Icelandic cod in their fish and chips — and to this day, we haven’t found anything better! Be sure to work in a meal at Black Crust Pizzeria, as it is a town - and our family - favourite.

Heading back toward Reykjavik, we stayed overnight in Hella, a quiet village known for excellent Northern Lights viewing. Our two-bedroom apartment at the Stracta Hotel included a private hot tub — a welcome retreat after long, adventurous days. We stocked up on groceries and cooked a simple family dinner in our own kitchen, which, given Iceland’s prices, felt like a luxury. Though the living space was tight for four, the hot tub quickly became the main gathering place.

Our trip culminated in Reykjavik for New Year’s Eve. After checking in at the chic Hotel Von on Laugavegur Street, we enjoyed an outstanding family dinner at Apotek Kitchen + Bar and strolled to Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral to watch fireworks light up the night sky. By midnight, the city was transformed into a chaotic, jubilant celebration, with thousands of locals igniting over 500 tons of fireworks. Even though our midlife bodies were ready for sleep, we watched in wonder, the festive noise and lights a perfect finale to our adventure.

With a little time to spare before heading to the airport, we made one final stop — a walk through Elliðaárdalur. The quiet river and rare treed valley felt peaceful, unhurried, and grounding after a week of adventure.

Secret Lagoon (Gamla Laugin) – This is Iceland’s oldest geothermal pool, made in 1891. Due to volcanic activity the Blue Lagoon was closed so we had to find an alternative pool. Not a standard tourist stop and off the beaten track, this pool in Flúðir offered us a warm, clean, sulfur-rich experience. This felt more like a local pool rather than a tourist spot.

Arctic Adventures: Katla Ice Cave Tour – Visiting the ice caves near Vík was nothing short of magical. We met our guide at a central spot in town before boarding a Super Jeep for the trek across icy lava fields toward Katla Glacier. Made of ash and ice, Katla is one of the few glaciers accessible year-round. Walking through the caves, tasting ice chipped from the walls, and sliding down the glacier’s side was a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that left our whole family exhilarated.  While not difficult to access, the ice cave may prove somewhat difficult for those with mobility issues. 

Buggy X-Treme Northern Lights ATV Tour – For another dose of Icelandic adventure, we embarked on a private two-hour ATV tour along the snowy banks of the Ytri-Rangá River. We paused on a black sand beach to sip hot chocolate and nibble cookies while staring out at the vast, dark ocean — an unexpectedly magical way to experience Iceland’s raw beauty.