reykjavik

Andrew and I returned to Iceland in March, determined to catch the Northern Lights — and felt incredibly fortunate when shimmering green appeared right outside our airplane window before we had even landed.

We spent our first two nights in Reykjavik, this time booking an Airbnb in a residential neighbourhood rather than the hotel district. Reykjavik may not be large, but living among locals changed the feel of it entirely — quieter mornings, neighbourhood bakeries, and a small glimpse into everyday Icelandic life.

One day we toured the universities and visited the Perlan Museum, diving deeper into Iceland’s natural history. The next, we drove to Þingvellir National Park, walking through that dramatic landscape where continents slowly pull apart. This time, we didn’t hesitate — we booked the Silfra snorkelling tour with Arctic Adventures. Drifting between the North American and European tectonic plates in crystal-clear glacial water was surreal. My hands were freezing, but our guide was steady and reassuring, even giving me a gentle boost through the light rapids. For someone who barely swims, it felt like a quiet victory.

We joined an ATV tour of Reykjavik Peak. Snow and ice made the terrain more technical than expected. I wasn’t quite ready to let Andrew take the wheel at first, so he rode down with the instructor who gave him a more exciting ride. On flatter roads below he took the wheel on our ATV which he loved. The panoramic views at the top made every bump worthwhile.

One evening we climbed into a Super Jeep and headed beyond the city lights in search of clear skies. Clouds made us skeptical, but Iceland surprised us again. The aurora appeared in sweeping waves of green, and we toasted the moment with a shot of Brennivín — Iceland’s famously strong spirit. 

This trip felt more relaxed when it came to dining, but we discovered two bakeries we missed the first time. Sandholt, serving pastries for over a century, felt like stepping into tradition. BakaBaka quickly became our daily stop — coffee, bread still warm from the oven, and something sweet we didn’t need but couldn’t resist.

And this time, we made one very deliberate purchase — authentic Icelandic wool sweaters for all of us. After choosing blankets on our first visit, we weren’t leaving without them this time!

Our final night was spent at Hlíðar Fisherman’s Village in Álftanes, a quiet stretch of coastline just outside Reykjavik. Turf-roofed buildings, ocean views, and skylights above our bed made it feel both rustic and special. Andrew claimed the loft, perfectly positioned to watch the lights from bed. The rooftop hot tub became our favourite place to sit beneath the brilliant night sky. It felt like the village had been made for Aurora viewing, and we couldn’t believe our luck when the lights appeared on our one and only night there.

Each night, the Northern Lights returned — sometimes bold, sometimes barely there — but always enough to make us pause. It was a special trip for Andrew, finally ticking off his own bucket list moment, and even more special to share that time together.