fiji

 We landed via Fiji Airways from Brisbane into Nadi, spending the first night — as many backpackers do — at Smugglers Cove Beach Resort & Hotel. A 22-bed dorm fit perfectly into a backpacker’s budget ($11 CAD a night). The hostel sits right on the beach along a busy tourist strip near Nadi, surrounded by budget restaurants and hotels.

It’s not really a destination in itself, but it’s a bit of a rite of passage: cheap, social, and full of fellow travellers swapping stories over drinks. Evenings were simple — a few beers by the beach, conversations that stretched late, and plenty of time meeting other backpackers passing through. It’s a great place to connect with people, though probably not somewhere you’d stay more than a few nights.

From there, we put together an island-hopping tour into the Yasawas that we researched online.

Stop one was Naqalia Lodge, where we stayed for two nights. The lodge felt somewhere between a hostel and a homestay — warm, welcoming hosts and a friendly atmosphere, even if the facilities were more rustic than what came later. The Yasawas aren’t about perfection; they’re about remoteness, reef, and slowing down. Every stop offered small hikes — some guided for a fee, others beautifully maintained and free for guests — leading to hilltop views and quiet gazebos overlooking endless blue.

February is the rainy season in Fiji, so travel tends to be lighter than at other times of the year. We were the only guests at Naqalia Lodge, which initially made us slightly hesitant — but what an experience it turned into. Our kind hosts were heading into “town” for church and the social that follows, and we had the good fortune to be invited along.

It was a traditional service, and we were provided with equally traditional dress — far more appropriate than our shorts and t-shirts. Accessible via a 20-minute walk through the bush, we opted instead for a five-minute tinny ride around the point. Not entirely sure what to expect, we were quickly overwhelmed by the kindness and generosity of the Fijians who welcomed us into their community with open arms. Watching the happiness exude between friends as they arrived by boat from neighbouring islands, was a moment we will not soon forget.

Next we hoped on the ferry towards Barefoot Manta Island Resort for 1 night. An 8-bed glamping-style dorm, with incredible snorkelling, and diving facilities. Evenings meant a lively communal dinner buffet and that effortless island camaraderie that forms when everyone has salt in their hair and sun on their shoulders.

Next up was Blue Lagoon Beach Resort. Fiji’s true draw is its marine life and spectacular hiking opportunities, and this stop offered both, though for some reason the snorkelling didn’t quite match the brilliance of Barefoot Manta.

What it may have lacked in reef encounters, it more than made up for in food, staff, and activities — some of the best in the Yasawas. A 10-course Japanese dinner, unbelievably included in the meal plan, two sparkling pools, and polished facilities gave the feeling of a backpacker’s upgrade. We bunked in a 12-bed dorm, but dined like five-star guests, savouring meals that felt as carefully curated as the surrounding scenery.

Our personal favourite? Octopus Resort, where we spent two wonderful nights. The facilities were slightly simpler than Blue Lagoon — one gorgeous pool instead of two, one restaurant (with another reportedly in the works) — yet everything felt thoughtful and carefully considered.

Activities were clearly posted, with what was free, what had a cost, and what required sign-up. There were plenty of complimentary options, though a little pre-planning was needed to take full advantage.

And the snorkelling — phenomenal. Perhaps on par with Barefoot Manta, perhaps even better. Hard to say when the reef continues to steal your breath at every turn.

Next was Barefoot Kuata Island Resort for 1 night. This was another glamping-style 8-bed dorm perched among hiking trails and hilltop viewpoints. Quiet gazebos. Ocean breezes. That feeling of being very small in a very big, very beautiful world.

Back at Smugglers Cove Beach Resort & Hotel for four final nights of budget living and beachside socializing, it was a chance to slow down, and take on some traditional sight seeing and shopping. 

As a rugby player back home in Canada, one of my bucket-list items had always been to watch a match featuring some of the world’s best players. I was finally able to tick that one off watching the Fijian Drua take on the Hurricanes — one of New Zealand’s professional Super Rugby clubs.

Getting to the stadium was part of the adventure. We set out across town on public transit to the Fijian rugby pitch, joined by a new friend we had met in Sydney who had flown into Nadi to meet us and head to the game together. Navigating unfamiliar routes and figuring things out as we went quickly became part of the fun — and eventually, we made it.

The match lived up to everything I had hoped it would be. The rain didn’t dampen the fans’ enthusiasm — if anything, it made the cheers even louder. The energy in the stadium was electric, the kind of experience that stays with you long after the final whistle.

What an incredible moment to witness firsthand.

We decided the long ride back into Nadi might dull the buzz we were still feeling after such an incredible match. Instead, we were fortunate to find a last-minute Airbnb in Lautoka, a city that felt more relaxed and tourist-friendly than Nadi. Hosted by the gracious Sanjay, the home had two beds and a pool ($72 CAD a night) — a small luxury after dorm life. It felt like a reset. A deep breath.

We have mentioned that February is the rainy season, right? Up until then we had been lucky — sunshine or only short bursts of rain. But that morning in Lautoka, the skies opened. A sudden flood swept through, overwhelming the drainage and spilling across roads and yards alike. A kind soul eventually drove us back to Nadi once the water levels subsided somewhat, expertly navigating washed-out roads. It was a reminder that travel, even when carefully planned, often comes with moments of unpredictability — and the stories worth remembering are often the ones you never see coming.

After our final nights in Nadi, the trip took a completely different turn with three nights at Sheraton Resort & Spa, Tokoriki Island. This was no longer a backpacking experience. Days could be spent playing mini golf, tennis, snorkelling, or trying every water sport imaginable. The food was incredible. Polished, beautiful, indulgent.

….That’s Ben and Lucy’s Fiji story.

Now the backpacks are back on and the journey continues. Australia and Fiji behind them, New Zealand ahead — where the next chapter involves trading dorm rooms and island ferries for van life and the open road.

As parents, watching from afar, there’s something pretty wonderful about seeing them experience the world this way — figuring things out as they go, meeting people along the way, and discovering that the best moments are often the ones that were never part of the plan. 

We can’t wait to hear what New Zealand has in store for them!