Bangkok

 When it was time to head up to Bangkok, we took the one hour flight from Surat Thani airport to the Don Mueang International Airport. This airport, unlike the larger, more modern Suvamabhumi Airport, serves as a the hub for low-cost carriers and domestic flights. 

We flew Thai Air Asia on this leg of the trip.  The flight itself was great. We were very early to the airport so checked in right away with our carry on luggage.  Land crew arrived about 30 minutes ahead of our flight. As we began boarding, we were asked by a rep to weigh our bags - which were over their 7kg carry on weight. Make sure to read the restrictions on your reservation. I rarely pay attention to weight limits and it has never been an issue, so if it was noted on the reservation (it likely was) I missed it. We were forced to go back to the in person check in, weigh the bags, again, check them in, head to a separate kiosk to pay the fee - and then have the remaining carry on bags re-checked. We were afraid we would miss the flight. Needless to say, our mistake but we were really annoyed that this hadn't flagged earlier. 

We stayed a the relatively new Eleven Hotel Bangkok, in the Family Room which included a second small room with bunk beds (no window) and an extra bed placed in the main room.  This was a very tight fit which we immediately regretted. I had originally booked a second guest room which I ultimately cancelled thinking the family room would be sufficient.  Given we didn’t spend much time in the room it wasn’t the end of the world but definitely too tight for 5 fully grown people. I gather that is why the front desk asked numerous times that we wanted just the one room at check in!  One bathroom for 5 people was limiting. 

The hotel itself is a 9 storey boutique hotel just off the bustling Sukhumvit 11.  It was very clean, with a nice rooftop restaurant for breakfast and pre-dinner cocktails.  Lunch and dinner were ordered from a conventional menu that mixed Thai and Western dishes. 

AN ABSOLUTELY MUST BOOK TOUR

Based on a recommendation from a friend not long before our trip, I  booked the "Best Eats Private Midnight Tuk Tuk Food Tour" by Bangkok Food Tours with hotel pick up and drop off included.  As we had not yet been in a Tuk Tuk, I didn't realize the range these things had! I anticipated that the tour would exist in the area around Sukhumvit. Was I wrong! We went all over the city!

This was an incredible tour and easily in the running for our favourite of the trip. Our guide, Nuch, was a sweet and knowledgeable young woman.  She and Bangkok Food Tours, have thoughtfully planned this itinerary, and it was absolutely wonderful—truly a highlight of our travels. As we were not being picked up until 8pm, we decided we would have some apps and a cocktail in the hotel bar before departure. Stupid. Just stupid. There was more food to come than we could ever conceptualize. Go in hungry!!

We were divided into three tuk-tuks with excellent drivers and taken to places we never would have considered on our own. Most stops were spots we wouldn’t possibly have known about, and Nuch provided a clear rundown of where we went and what we ate via a note on WhatsApp the next day, which made it easy to revisit or recommend afterward.  

TIP: Bring cash. Half pre-paid by card at time of booking, second half in cash at tour end

The most notable stops on the tour (though every stop was notable!)

Restaurant: Tum Jim Joom:  this was a hole in the wall restaurant, on the side of a busy street, basically in an open sided trailer. Full of locals - so we instantly knew it would be fantastic.  And it was. The food was unbelievably good - possibly the best we ate the entire trip. Not fancy but the flavours were unreal. Especially the minced pork mint salad, grilled chicken, papaya salad and her chicken soup!Food:

Restaurant: Ann Guay tiew kua gai (Chinatown):This has won a Michelin star every year since 2018. Nuch took us to the “kitchen” which is a series of stalls working on ceramic fire pits in the alley behind the restaurant. It was so cool to see! The pancake, "Guay Tiew Kua Gai(Noodle chicken pancake)," is the only thing served, and so tasty. It was such a treat to have the opportunity to watch the chefs at work.

Restaurant: MaeJim fruit station: Here we mostly had fruits that I've never heard of before!

First we were given Khao Niew Ma Muang(sticky rice mango), which is the gold standard of desserts in Thailand. This one was much simpler than in other restaurants where tried it, and it was SO GOOD!

The fruits that tried were Mangosteen( queen of fruit); Sap Pa Rod Phu Lae (mini pineapple);Ngoe(rambutan)

and Chom Pu(rose apple).  I think the favourite among us was Mangosteen. Almost impossible to describe!

Restaurant: Amorosa bar (Old town): This was awesome—an absolute must-stop for an evening drink. We were offered two cocktail options; our family loved both. The view of Wat Arun was incredible, and the river was so calm in contrast to its daytime bustle.

Amorosa Bar is tucked away at the end of a narrow alley, with access via five flights of exterior stairs attached to the restaurant. The bar itself is lovely, and the view may be one of the best we saw.

• This is the rooftop to the Arun Residence, a 4 star boutique hotel, which looks really nice. Was hard to see at night how nice it was, but looking at website it’s really great. 

We were also brought to the Flower Market, which did not sound particularly interesting - but it is wild! Open 24/7 it’s a street, much like Spadina Road in Toronto,  with flower store after flower store, spilling onto the street. Apparently they sell for weddings, flower offerings for the temples and basically everything. We were greeted by one supplier who gave us a lotus flower - which look a little like a closed Peonie. We were shown, and then able to, remove a few of the top leaves, then bend back the next many until it reveals the centre of the flower. Beautiful.
 

DAY TRIPPING IN BANGKOK

Wat Pho (Reclining Buddha)
Arrive early at Wat Pho (home of the Reclining Buddha) and wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees. When we tried to leave around 8:30 a.m., we had difficulty securing a Grab, so we negotiated a fare with a taxi instead. Traffic was already quite heavy.

We arrived while the temple was still relatively quiet and headed straight to the massage school, where they were able to take us immediately. I had read that massages were inexpensive—30 minutes cost 350 THB (about $15). The massage was intense and involved movements I didn’t think my body could still manage, but when I stood up afterward, I felt better than I had in years.

Grand Palace Area
From there, we walked toward the Grand Palace but chose not to go inside. There were so many tourists, and we tend to prefer wandering streets over touring palaces and temples. Instead, we continued to the pier and stopped for lunch at a tiny, multi-level restaurant on Maha Rat Road which we were initially unsure about. Once again, the food was incredible.

ICONSIAM
We hopped on a ferry to ICONSIAM, mostly for the river ride, and it turned out to be a great destination. The mall is massive—seven stories and unlike anything we’ve seen before. It’s largely high-end shopping, with a few midrange options. The food floor alone was overwhelming, with endless choices and concepts far beyond what we’re used to.

Chatuchak Market
We took the metro nine stops from the Eleven Hotel to the Chatuchak Market. While interesting and highly recommended by other travel sites, it ended up feeling like a bit of a waste of time for us. I had expected something similar to the night markets, but what we saw was more of a flea and antique market. There were beautiful dishes and vases, but nothing we could realistically buy or bring home.

Terminal 21
Each floor of Terminal 21 represents a different place in the world—Paris, Rome, Istanbul, San Francisco—with themed décor for each. While the concept is fun, the mall itself isn’t great. The stores are more affordable but trend towards discount shopping. We did pick up silk scarves  at reasonable prices. (Thailand produces a lot of silk). The mall is about a 10-minute walk from the hotel.

NOTABLE RESTAURANTS  

Burapa Eastern Thai Cuisine    

This restaurant is just down the road from the Eleven Hotel and came highly recommended by a friend living in Bangkok—yet another excellent choice. It’s a Michelin-recognized restaurant set across three stories, with old leather sofas and a great atmosphere. Dinner here was unbelievable, complemented by excellent cocktails and wine. Our total came to about $350, far less than expected. Highly recommend.

Sirocco Rooftop   

Located on the 69th floor of the Lebua State Tower, this restaurant was made famous by The Hangover Part II. While not Michelin-starred, it is fine dining taken to the extreme. Our table had three dedicated staff members—one for water, one for alcohol, and one for food. Unbelievably expensive and unbelievably delicious!

This was our final big dinner together and the end of our celebrations, so we decided to splurge—starting with a magnum of champagne to share. We all stared at each other while ordering, completely unprepared for the prices. The menus themselves light up when opened, which was a lovely (and ominous!) touch.

We all opted for the prix fixe menu—except Andrew, who ordered the chicken. The prix fixe included a choice of ravioli or tagliolini, followed by Norwegian langoustine, then a main of Patagonia Toothfish or Iwate Wagyu beef. Dessert options were Belgian dark chocolate with Baileys ice cream or raspberry crème brûlée. We ordered a bottle of Amarone with the steak, which left us a bit unsettled - the same $55 bottle from our wine rack was $450 here!

Petits fours followed, and after mentioning that we were celebrating Andrew’s birthday and our anniversary, they surprised us with a chocolate cake. We were also sent home with two strawberry white chocolates each.

This was an unbelievably expensive yet absolutely fabulous meal—nothing like anything we’ve ever experienced. A true celebration. The location is spectacular, the service impeccable, and we believe that the views over Bangkok are genuinely the best in the city. There’s also a nearby bar, slightly removed from the restaurant, filled with a younger crowd.

My only wish is that I had known just how expensive it would be—we were definitely surprised, as nothing I read fully prepared us for it. That said, it is recommended for the best views in Bangkok (true) and the best rooftop restaurant and bar in the city (I believe it). Highly recommend—the expense was well worth it!